AYVALIK TO KEMER 2004
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From David and Pat Teall On board Retreat from Battle II LOA: 10.7m Draft: 1.7m
This a shortened copy of our Cruising Report that includes only those harbours and anchorages for which we have given a correction or addition to the Pilot or Pilot Updates. The page numbers given in brackets following the heading for each entry refer to the following Pilot:
Turkish Waters Pilot 6th Edition by Rod Heikell published by Imray in 2001.
Harbours/Anchorages visited in May or June, 2004
Eskiföça (page 106) 38º 40'.6N 26º 42'.7E We attempted anchorage 3 as labelled in the Pilot but found it to be 25m deep rather than the reported 2/3m. We continued to anchorage 4 which was rather better than suggested. The shallow patches shown on the plan in the Pilot lie off the points at either side of the bay leaving plenty of room to anchor in between.
Alaçati Marina (page 129) 38º 15'.3N 26º 23'.2E The marina in the NW corner of the bay is now almost complete. The outer walls are in place and the banks have been quayed. However, the pontoons, mooring lines, water and electricity are not yet installed and there are no on-shore services other than the offices. We were greeted by the manager who said we could stay at our own risk free of charge and if anyone asked for money, we were not to pay! They are apparently waiting for final clearance on environmental issues following which they intend to move rapidly to full operation. It is a 3km walk from the marina to the village where there are several small supermarkets and banks.
Port St Paul (page 142) 37º 39'.1N 27º 00'.1E We were turned away from here at 1600 by soldiers in a Land Rover onshore leaving us with no alternative to a 35-mile down-wind romp in a rising gale. I do not know if anchorage is now forbidden entirely, or just overnight, but it is clearly no longer the safe haven that it once was to St Paul.
Kazikli Limani (page 150) 37º 20'.0N 27º 28'.8E Paradise Bay is now Paradise Lost. It is now the home of two fish farms and there is no room left to anchor. However, there is good anchorage over mud towards the head of the inlet in the centre of the channel between the restaurant on the eastern shore and the mussel farm on the western shore.
Bodrum (page 173) 37º 02'.1N 27º 25'.5E The Museum of Underwater Archaeology in the Castle is closed on Mondays.
Pabuç (page 178) 36º 58'.8N 27º 33'.8E We spent a peaceful night here anchored off and tied back to the shore. Contrary to the comment by Chris Kropacsy, there is no development ashore at all other than a campsite in the northern corner. I suspect Chris may have been referring to the anchorage at the western end of Kargiçik Buku around the corner to the north which is developed.
Söğüt (page 184) 36° 56'·7N 28° 11'·2E A new facility known as Gokova Yacht Club has opened in the NW corner of Söğüt Bay with moorings for Cruising Sailing Yachts (no Motor Boats and no Gullets) . There is a floating pontoon parallel to the shore and laid moorings for about 12 yachts. There is drinking water and electricity on the pontoon and toilets, showers and a restaurant ashore. A small shop was nearing completion whilst we were there.
The owner is Haluk Karamanoglu, Turkeys second Circumnavigator. So impressed by the help and hospitality he received at innumerable yacht clubs around the world, he has determined to provide a similar welcome and service in Turkey. He has unquestionably succeeded.
The Club Manager is Sami Bimukkurst who previously worked for Setur Marinas at Antalya (with Hasan Kacmaz) and at Kuşadasi. He is very knowledgeable and could not be more helpful. He and his staff keep watch on VHF Channel 72. (not the usual 73) Tel: 0252 465 51 48 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
The setting is delightful and the charges are very reasonable - we paid 15 Euro/night for 10.7m. There is a Dolmus service to Marmaris or a member of the staff will take you by car for 20 Euros plus 5 Euros/hour waiting time.
The Setur Pier off the southern shore of the bay has been taken over by Marti Marina. It is still in use, but is much more exposed than Gokova Yacht Club.
Kargi Köyü (page 199) 36º 42'.1N 27º 41'.1E This anchorage is very much deeper than suggested in the Pilot. I do not consider it to be a safe yacht anchorage.
Kuruca Bükü (page 202) 36º 45'.3N 27º 53'.5E It took us three attempts to anchor here as there is a large amount of weed. The best spot is in the NW corner where it is shallower and over sand. We could not see the rocks shown on the plan in the Pilot.
Kuyulu Bükü (page 204) 36º 47'.4N 28º 05'.0E A new bar was being built in the south bay and there is a camp site and bar in the north bay. However, we spent two very peaceful nights in the north bay in early June and enjoyed an excellent walk ashore through pine clad hills containing some extraordinary rock formations.
Selimiye Köyü (page 207) 36º 44'.2N 28º 05'.4E There are no suitable depths to anchor in the NW corner as shown in the Pilot.
Dirsek (page 209) 36º 41'.1N 27º 58'.7E The plan in the Pilot does not give an accurate representation of the shoreline. We anchored and tied back off the northern shore just east of the restaurant where there was plenty of room.
Serçe Limani (page 213) 36º 34'.7N 28º 02'.9E There is a new restaurant with laid moorings in the southern arm as well as Captain Nemos in the northern arm making it difficult to find a spot to lie to your own anchor. There is a really good walk going north from Captain Nemos one of the best we have found in the Mediterranean. There is one very steep hill, but it is otherwise reasonably level.
Marmaris Yacht Marine (page 221) 36º 49'.1N 28º 18'.3E Marmarin Marina (Boatyard) shown on Page 23 of the Pilot Updates has been taken over and incorporated into Marmaris Yacht Marine shown on Page 24. There are reports that they have now taken over Sun Marina as well but there is no evidence of that on the ground.
Harbours/Anchorages visited in September or October, 2004
Seagull Bay, Skopea Limani (not listed) 36º 38'.2N 28º 52'.8E This delightful bay is not listed in the Pilot. It is in the extreme SE corner of Skopea Limani and there is a large outline of a seagull made from white painted rocks on the shore, hence the name Seagull Bay. We anchored and tied back to the north shore seaward of a rough wooden quay that belongs to the tiny, quiet restaurant.
Boynüz Bükü (page 238) 36º 43'.5N 28º 54'.6E Not recommended. The bay is much deeper than the Pilot suggests and when we visited there were many yachts free-anchored in 20-25m. We anchored and tied back but found ourselves at the mercy of the yachts swinging free on huge lengths of chain which ranged around the entire anchorage.
Ece Marina, Fethiye (page 243) 36º 37'.4N 29º 06'.2E A new marina known as Ece Marina has been built off Fethiye incorporating the yacht jetty shown in the Pilot. The marina is contained within wave-break pontoons and has full facilities other than any form of lift or hard-standing. For this reason they have an emergency floating dry-dock to deal with boats about to sink.
We anchored on the opposite side of the bay tucked into the corner west of the wreck. A team was working to remove the wreck whilst we were there and we were told that the old anchor chain that created a foul area over much of the bay had already been removed.
Gemiler Adasi (page 248) 36º 32'.8N 28º 04'.7E We could not find a spot to anchor in Karacaören (anchorage 1 in the Pilot) as the restaurant has laid buoys in the best spot. Some boats used the buoys and refused to go to the restaurant in protest but we moved on to anchorage 3 north of Gemiler Adasi. It was deep (20m) but secure when tied back to the island. However, we were attacked by a veritable plague of small boats trying to sell everything from ice cream to pancakes. If a man in a small boat offers to take your line ashore, say no very firmly!
Kaş Marina (page 253) 36º 12'.5N 29º 36'.9E There has been no further development on the marina. We anchored and tied back in the SE corner but it is deep and the holding mediocre. We had a second night alongside the quay close to the slipways which were occupied by local fishing boats. It is an easy walk into Kaş town where there are many shops and banks.
Üçağiz Limani (page 261) 36º 11'.8N 29º 51'.5E This is arguably the best anchorage in Turkey. We swung free to our anchor in the eastern arm just north of Kale Koy in 7m over mud. Good shelter and excellent holding. We dinghied to the eastern end of the bight and walked to Kale Koy, paid a fisherman to take us to Üçağiz and walked back to our dinghy along the northern shore.