CROATIA 2002

 

 

To download this document as an RTF file, Click here

 

This report should be read in conjunction with the eight-page report we submitted in 2001 in which a comment was made upon every harbour and anchorage in which we stayed during that year.  This report contains comments on additional harbours that we visited in May and June 2002 before reluctantly heading south to the Ionian.  As before, those entries that include a correction to the pilot are marked with a sidebar.  The page number given in brackets following the heading for each entry refers to the third edition of the Adriatic Pilot by T and D Thompson published by Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson.

 

 

Stobreč (page 152)  A very useful anchorage not far from Split.  We anchored close in near the sounding of 3m shown on the chartlet: we had 3.7m.  We landed on the small beach and were delighted to discover that we were only 50 metres from the largest supermarket we ever found in Croatia.  As I write, six months on, we are still using the glacé cherries we bought there!  Two huge floating pipes were tethered between Stobrec and Podstrana and diggers were working at the mouth of the small river that enters the bay between the two villages.  The pipes were unlit and would be a hazard at night.  The Brački Kanal east of Stobrec is one of the most dramatic channels in the Mediterranean with mountains of up to 1500m on the mainland side.  Do try to include it in your Passage Plans! 

Uvala Luka, Otok Brač (page 178)  There have been a number of changes here since the pilot was written all hinging around a new restaurant that was nearing completion at the time of our visit.  The restaurant is a substantial building on the SW shore of the western arm.  A line drawn from the NE marker of the compass rose on the chartlet to the S of the word Sand passes through the building that stands on the shore.  A short jetty has been built west of the restaurant on the elbow midway between the 4m and 7m soundings.  There appeared to be laid moorings tailed back to the quay.  Further into the western arm, between the 3m and 4m soundings, a number of mooring buoys have been laid.  Notices have been erected (by the restaurant owners we suspect!) prohibiting anchoring in both the western and southern arm and the water between though one might dispute the legality of these.  A small fish farm has been established near the entrance to the southern arm. We first attempted to anchor and tie back in the northern arm but our anchor found only smooth rock and would not hold.  We then looked into the southern arm but found it exposed in the N wind so we picked up one of the new buoys and enjoyed a peaceful night.  No doubt once it opens, the occupants of boats using the buoys will be expected to eat at the restaurant.

Uvala Rasotica, Otok Brač (page 179)  We agree with the authors of the pilot that this is a particularly beautiful anchorage.  Contrary to reports we had heard, there is no new ferry terminal here, nor could there ever be.  The protected western arm is very narrow and it would be difficult for more than two yachts to moor safely there.  We used our bow anchor and ropes aft to both sides of the inlet and filled most of the available space.

Uvala Žukova, Otok Hvar (page 129)  We moored in the SE arm, bows to our anchor, stern to the southern shore.  We spent three peaceful nights in this well-protected anchorage whilst southerly storms raged at sea. Well recommended.

Stari Grad, Otok Hvar (page 127)  There are laid moorings tailed back to the Town Quay as shown in the pilot.  We picked up a vacant mooring for a couple of hours when we called here to take on water and go shopping.  There was no charge.

Uvala Ždrilca, Otočić Marinkovac (page 122)  We took several attempts to anchor here bringing up huge balls of weed time after time.  We eventually cut through and held and spent a peaceful night.

Uvala Luka (Lovište), Pelješac Peninsular (page 82)  An extremely useful, fully-protected anchorage with plenty of room and good holding.  We sat out a gale here in comfort lying fairly centrally near the 8m sounding on the chartlet. On another occasion we spent a quiet night in the NW corner near the 6m sounding.  We walked right around the bay from the NW corner through Mirci to Loviste.

Kneža, Otok Korčula (page 114)  A delightful anchorage behind Otočić Kneža Mala though we found less water than the pilot suggests.  We anchored in 4 metres between the two 5m soundings shown on the chartlet.  Although the author says he once sat out an easterly gale here, the shallow water prevented us tucking sufficiently behind Kneža Mala to get out of the swell.

Žuljana, Pelješac Peninsular (page 80)  We visited briefly hoping to stock up at the Supermarket mentioned in the pilot.  It is a delightful little village but ‘supermarket’ is something of a misnomer for the minute village shop.  We significantly reduced their stock by buying an apple and six eggs!

Otočić Badija (page 104)  A very pretty anchorage south of the former monastery with plenty of room and good holding.  It was very peaceful in May but when we revisited in June there was loud music at times from the Sports Centre.

Luka Zaklopatica, Otok Lastovo (not listed)  42ş 46'.4N  016ş 52'.8E  This natural harbour on the north coast of Otok Lastovo is mysteriously omitted from the pilot.  It is well worth a visit.  The harbour is a natural bay almost entirely closed in by an offlying island, Otočić Zaklopatica.  Entrance to the harbour is through the 30m-wide eastern entrance where we found a minimum depth of 6.8m.  BEWARE:  The much-narrower western entrance is rock-bound and carries little more than 1m.  It is used by small fishing boats, but do not be tempted to follow them.  Depths over most of the central area of the harbour are 12/13m.  We anchored fairly centrally in 12.8m and had a clear circle of 80m around us.  There are two restaurants around the harbour that provide laid moorings tailed to the quay:  the easterly one is the larger and also provides electricity and water.  In a bora (NE) one could find shelter anchored off and tied back to the western end of Otocic Zaklopatica.

Luka Polače, Otok Mljet (page 94)  We visited this superb anchorage in 2001.  On our return visit this year a gale was forecast so we picked up a tailed mooring provided by a restaurant on the quay used by the ferry.  The quay proved to be fully-protected in all wind directions.  There was no charge, but we were expected to (and did) eat in the restaurant.  The bill for dinner for two came to about the same as we would have paid in an ACI Marina.  We were able to plug in our electric lead with a long extension and we were allowed a limited amount of water in a container.  Several other restaurants provide similar facilities but they are more exposed.

Ston, Pelješac Peninsular (page 64)  A very interesting visit.  We found a minimum of 3m in the channel and 2.8m alongside the Town Quay.  Work was in progress to modernise the Town Quay though we saw no sign of water or electricity.  We found three smallish supermarkets in the town. We walked around the city walls and across the isthmus to Mali Ston.  We also walked along the edge of the channel to Broce where the pilot suggests one could moor tied back to one of the two jetties.  Most of the water was too shallow and what wasn’ t was occupied by local craft.

Uvala Šunj, Otok Lopud (page 68)  A deserted bay open to the SE.  We anchored in 11m.